Crack is stacked, but extremely hard to train for. Despite the increasing number of Wide Boyz volumes present in the gym, most climbers never get an opportunity to crack climb in the gym. When they do, the sequence is often short and far from reflecting the necessary techniques required to move up a wall. Fortunately, you can build a crack at home.

Crack machines come in many shapes and sizes. Despite their many forms, they all train the body to become comfortable with being uncomfortable in a jam. While board climbing helps the boulderer perform on steep terrain, crack machines go even further to prepare crack climbers for their ultimate project.

Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker famously embarked a=on a two year training stint to climb the cracks and off widths in the United States. They trained indoors, on wood and found the skills and strengths they learned transferred well to the real world. Although rock and wood differ dramatically ina. friction based discipline, having the strength makes learning the technique less frustrating. Today we are going to build a crack machine.

Learn how to build a home wall here.

Building a climbing structure comes with inherent risk. Ensure safe use of tools and do not climb on an unsafe structure. This is designed as an in-depth guide, though you will want to make any and all modifications you deem necessary to maintain safety and structural integrity.

Furthermore, use crashpads when operating the machine.

This will be the most confusing portion of the piece. It will break down into smaller procedures and will feature diagrams and images.

Order and purchase your materials from your local wood shop.

Your machine is now built. You can add cracks, further reinforce the machine, seal the machine from conditions, or complete other supplemental additions to its structure if you choose.

Get the digital edition of Gripped for your chosen platform: